Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Morel Chat On CBC

Here's a short clip of me on CBC radio spouting off about morel mushrooms and having a good chat with Alan Neal on the All In A Day show. The show was aired on April 28th just a few days before the morels started popping in Ottawa.

Morels With Ramps, Nettles And Lemon

This is what may tastes like in the Ottawa river valley! Serves 2 as a starter

  • Good olive oil to coat pan (don't cheap out here!)
  • 15 Fresh morels
  • 5 Ramps finely sliced, tops roughly chopped
  • 1 cup fresh nettle leaves
  • 1 lemon/zest
  • fleur de sel to taste
  • fresh ground pepper to taste
  • good chunk of bread (baguette, ciabatta, Belgium or crispy sourdough)

  1. Clean your Morels!!! Morel pores are perfect homes for many interesting small critters! If morels are big slice so they are all the same size. Don't forget to inspect the insides of the mushrooms for friends as well!
  2. Zest and juice only half the lemon. Remove any seeds from juice and add zest to juice. Set aside.
  3. Prep your ramps. Clean them. Remove the bulbs from the leafy tops, slice the bulbs fairly thin and rough chop the tops. keep bulbs and tops separate.
  4. Prep your nettles. Use gloves to remove the nettle leaves from plant. Select young new plants with tender leaves. Wash as you would regular lettuce and dry. Combine with ramp tops.
  5. You should now have one bowl of cleaned morels, one bowl of cleaned nettles/ramp tops, one bowl of lemon juice/zest, one bowl of sliced ramps, fleur de sel, a pepper mill and good olive oil.
  6. Get a large frying pan hot on stove. When hot add olive oil to coat pan. Before oil starts smoking add sliced ramps. Cook for 10 secs, to totally infuse the oil with rampy goodness. Add morels and nettle/ramp mix.
  7. Leave on high heat so that any liquid that comes out of the mushrooms will evaporate as its being cooked. Cook until morels have shrunk by almost half and all the liquid in the pan is absorbed back into the morels about 3-4 minutes.
  8. Add lemon and remove from heat. Season with fleur de sel and a fresh pepper. Serve immediately with crusty bread.

Note: I sometimes add fresh red chili with the ramps at the beginning for a little extra kick!




Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Epic Morel Memory Flashback!!!!



Question: What was one of the most memorable morel days of your life.....
Answer: Well now let me see.....ah yes.....and it goes a little something like this.....

One Of My Most epic morel days!

The French gulch burn site summer of 2005. Picking with a good friend chef and local restaurateur Phillip Lamarche of Klondike Kates restaurant in Dawson City Yukon where I was employed at the time. We had a little shroom rivalry going on in the kitchen at work as to who could get the most morels in the shortest amount of time on any giving day. This was the day I was going to change all that. We headed off with a few guys from the kitchen to French gulch for a regular four hour pick. After about 3 hours you can usually find a few people who more or less struck out waiting by the truck for the rest of us lucky ones to finish up picking. Not me though, I was deep in the burn and up to my neck in morels! Forget the Dawson City “Gold Rush” famous in 1898, this was the Dawson City “Mush Rush” of 05! My adrenaline is flowing, arms are flying and the weight on my back is getting heaver. I lost track of time, I lost track of reality. I felt like the guy from fear and loathing when he enters the hotel high on mescaline and everyone turns into dinosaurs! I was completely and utterly in the zone and “the spell of the Yukon” has a whole new meaning to me at this point of time. When I climbed up the 900+ foot embankment I was down I had a trapper nelson full of baskets and four 5 gallon pails full of morel glory! I was completely covered in wood ash, charcoal dust and blood head to toe. I looked as though I just escaped a war zone! When it was all said and done we brought them back to Kates for cleaning grading and scaling. The final weight was 140 pounds of fresh morels, 68 of which came from my buckets in 4 hours of picking. I have since broken that record and know of many mainstream pickers that achieve this regularly. But in that moment… on that day… in French gulch… I’ve never experienced such a out this world experience with mushrooms I have not ingested in my entire life! What a epic day for morels!!




Some of our summer of 05 bounty. Yes those are boxes and garbage bags full of morels from a epic Yukon summer!





Sunday, April 11, 2010

Ottawa.....R.I.P.


This party is about to hit the road! Good Bye Ottawa, Hello Yukon....Again. Can't wait to get back up to the mothership! Final prep is in place for the move with only 2 week remaining in O-town.
I will be running a fishing camp for the summer at the edge of Kluane national park on dezadeash lake. Ive contacted farmers and am currently making connections on the coast for seafood/shellfish.
Ottawa its been a slice, but its time to move on. Hoping to get my hands on a few ramps and morels before I leave and finish a few more hams and charcuterie projects I have on the go.
Some of my latest creations. From top left clockwise. Kiebasa, st.canut pork rillettes, dry cured wild boar sausage, heritage breed procuttio, tasso ham, foie gras and heritage breed pork liver terrine

Monday, March 8, 2010

Some new stuff! + Habanero Harissa

Got some new stuff these past couple of weeks.



Fresh meals solutions in Toronto has hooked me up with a thermal controller and a a nice cooker for sous vide applications.





Capital appliance and BBQ here in Ottawa hooked me up with a 18.5' Weber smokey mountain cooker to deal with my ongoing addiction to BBQ and outdoor cooking. More pics and recipes with both of these units to come!










Habanero Harissa!!!


I love everything chili! Ive been developing a bunch of chili condiments over the last couple years and thought I would share a few with you. Here is one of my newer ones. I find myself putting a bit of this in everything! Caramelized onions, yogurt, marinates, bbq sauces etc... its so good!


  • 250g Red Savina habenero sub other habs if necessary (deseeded)
  • Salt to taste (yes you have to taste it! sucker)
  • 1 tbsp agave nectar optional
  • 1tbsp caraway seeds (toasted and ground)
  • 1tbsp cumin seeds (toasted and ground)
  • 1 tsp black cumin seeds (toasted and ground)
  • 4 garlic cloves (small cloves)
  • 100g roasted red pepper
  • 1 tbsp tomato puree (I use homemade but store bought is fine)
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 2 tsp smoked paprika
  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • ½ preserved lemon (skin only finely chopped)
Combine everything but olive oil , preserved lemon and paprika in a blender or food processor and run till smooth. Scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. I needed add a bit more tom puree to make a smooth sauce. When completely smooth, fold in olive oil, preserved lemons and paprika, adjust the seasoning.




Sunday, February 21, 2010

THE WINTER BLUES

Its February. Its winter....But not. Its a waiting period. Not enough snow to do anything. No rain, a bit windy and CBC’s radio 1 is like voice’s is in my head.

Dub step’s Vibe Squad keeps me alive and my heartbeat in check. Family meal is becoming a religious experience and the curries seem to be getting a fair bit hotter. Harrisa is on the brain, but who wants to make harissa with long red chilli’s and bell peppers? Habanera’s are your friend; as are Thai chilli’s. I find it amusing to replace ones “cup a joe” with a “cup of fish sauce”.

The Yukon quest is over, Ottawa’s winter man marathon and winterlude are over, the Olympics are half over.

“When I close my eyes I see morel mushrooms and my brain reveals all the secret locations of last springs
hunt.”

–Jeffery Mickelson

























From top to bottom

  • Love my weber :),
  • love the results of my weber:),
  • pancettas ready to "go to there room",
  • dry garlic sausage prep
  • foie gras and heritage pork liver terrine with brandied currents

  • Wednesday, February 3, 2010

    A Good Day! Heritage Breed Lonzino and St-Canut Farm Bacon

    HELL YA! I can go home and sleep well tonight knowing its all packed up!

    St-Canut Farms bacon fresh from the smoker + cup of coffee = good times. This is really good pork for making bacon with! :)

    I started this at the end of November and just cut it down today. It is a Large Black Heritage Breed Hog Loin from Barbara at http://www.uppercanadaheritagemeat.ca/index.html cured in the style of lonzino. It has a complex flavour and melt in your mouth boar characteristics of the Large Blacks. Worth the wait? Ohh ya!



    These are some smoked farmers sausage still warm from the smoker. Bbq sauce/beans/slaw. All right if I have too......